French police on Mont Blanc duty try to keep climbers in line

August 12, 2018 by Benoît Pavan And Fabienne Bruere
A French gendarme confirms by telephone a hut reservation for a group of climbers before allowing them to start toward the Mont Blanc, the highest peak in Europe

Standing outside their yellow hut on a ridge 3,200 metres (10,500 feet) above sea level, two French gendarmes peer through binoculars at a group of foreign climbers making their way across a scree-littered stretch on what has become one of the deadliest routes to the top of Mont Blanc.

"Rocks, rocks!" one of the climbers suddenly yells, prompting them all to scurry for shelter in the Gouter corridor, on the most popular route to the summit of Europe's highest peak.

"Sometimes we're able to convince people to take a different route or postpone their climb," officer Fabrice Bernard-Jacquet said. "But it doesn't always work."

Overcrowding on the mountain has again been severe this summer, with more than 300 people pitting their wits against the mountain each day despite the growing risk of rockfall as high temperatures thaw more ground at higher altitudes.

The heatwave that struck much of Europe in the past few weeks only heightened the risk—on Friday the bodies of three Italian climbers were found.

That brought the death toll since this year's climbing season began to 15, up from 14 dead and two missing last year.

Last month, authorities began turning away climbers who did not have reservations at the 120-bed Gouter refuge, which has been overrun by ill-prepared climbers who have found the challenge too exhausting.

"They get back to the refuge but don't want to keep going down and so they were sleeping in the hallway, sometimes there would be 30 people too many," said lieutenant colonel Stephane Bozon, who heads the gendarmerie's mountain rescue service in Chamonix.

French gendarmes tracking climbers attempting to cross the Gouter corridor, which is prone to frequent rockslides, on Mont Blanc
'Our own fault'

The highly popular "Royal Route" up Mont Blanc is not considered a very technical climb, but officers say people can still quickly find themselves in over their heads while attempting the 4,810-metre peak.

Increased rock slides have even prompted local guides to stop leading clients up in recent weeks.

For those unwilling to put off their ascent, they are advised to start early to ensure they won't have to tackle the Gouter corridor in the afternoon, when the risk of rockslides is greatest.

"Tomorrow you have to go down early, crossing the couloir before twelve, OK?" Bernard-Jacquet told a group outside his hut.

Yet the advice sometimes falls on deaf ears for tourists who have often travelled a long way for the challenge.

Guillaume, a 29-year-old from the Ardeche region of France, said he and his partner were blocked for hours at the Gouter corridor—which he called the "corridor of death"—while trying to get down on a recent afternoon.

"It was our own fault we got into trouble," he said.

A group of climbers on their way to the Gouter corridor, where rockslides have become a growing risk for the dozens of people hoping to scale Mont Blanc each day
"There were more moments with rocks falling than without. And the crossing was very long and exposed."

Bernard-Jacquet said that as with most mountaineering risks, "climbers aren't very good at gauging them unless they've experienced them firsthand".

And judging from the steady streams of people going up despite the dangers, he and his fellow officers will be kept busy through the rest of the mission, which ends late September.

"It's a costly operation, in terms of hours and officers, but it's the price we have to pay to keep the problem under control," Bozon said.

Not everyone is happy with their presence nor the access restrictions, however, with many saying they should be left to manage on their own.

"Anybody who's doing this route has to be well aware of the risks," said David Bailey, a British who acknowledged that crossing the Gouter corridor was "scary".

Michael Gruber, who had travelled from Austria, was also determined to climb despite the warnings.

"If you want to go to Mont-Blanc I think this is a risk you have to take," he said.

"If the rocks fall we'll just go back (but) hopefully everything is good."

Explore further: Solo Russian climber dies on fourth highest mountain

Related Stories

Sherpa guide missing on Everest, presumed dead

May 17, 2018

A sherpa guide who went missing four days ago on Everest is presumed dead, Nepali officials said Thursday, the first feared fatality of the climbing season on the world's highest mountain.

Four climbers found dead on Everest

May 24, 2017

The bodies of four climbers were found inside a tent on Everest, an expedition organiser said Wednesday, taking the death toll on the world's highest peak this spring season to 10.

Nepal to strap some Everest climbers with GPS device

March 20, 2017

Some climbers attempting to scale Mount Everest during the upcoming spring climbing season will be strapped with a GPS device to locate them in case they are in trouble and to prevent false claims of reaching the summit, ...

Recommended for you

In colliding galaxies, a pipsqueak shines bright

February 20, 2019

In the nearby Whirlpool galaxy and its companion galaxy, M51b, two supermassive black holes heat up and devour surrounding material. These two monsters should be the most luminous X-ray sources in sight, but a new study using ...

Research reveals why the zebra got its stripes

February 20, 2019

Why do zebras have stripes? A study published in PLOS ONE today takes us another step closer to answering this puzzling question and to understanding how stripes actually work.

When does one of the central ideas in economics work?

February 20, 2019

The concept of equilibrium is one of the most central ideas in economics. It is one of the core assumptions in the vast majority of economic models, including models used by policymakers on issues ranging from monetary policy ...

Correlated nucleons may solve 35-year-old mystery

February 20, 2019

A careful re-analysis of data taken at the Department of Energy's Thomas Jefferson National Accelerator Facility has revealed a possible link between correlated protons and neutrons in the nucleus and a 35-year-old mystery. ...


Adjust slider to filter visible comments by rank

Display comments: newest first

4 / 5 (1) Aug 12, 2018
Ahhm the mindless-set of deniers.
not rated yet Aug 12, 2018
I am in general agreement about that, but the freeze-thaw cycle is nothing new, and it can be very hard to judge risks on a mountain if you aren't very experienced. It's not so much that the climbers deny climate change -- most mountaineers are very aware of threats to the environment and the capriciousness of nature -- but these are also the type to push the limits too.

Please sign in to add a comment. Registration is free, and takes less than a minute. Read more

Click here to reset your password.
Sign in to get notified via email when new comments are made.