Surf's up: How the seafloor shapes breaking waves
A new study led by surfing scientists at the Scripps Institution of Oceanography at UC San Diego revealed the physical relationships underlying a pattern familiar to generations of surfers.
Nonlinear waves in physical systems are wave phenomena governed by equations in which the restoring forces or constitutive relations depend nonlinearly on the field amplitudes, leading to amplitude-dependent propagation characteristics and interactions. Unlike linear waves, they can exhibit self-steepening, shock formation, soliton generation, modulational instability, and harmonic generation. Mathematically, they arise from nonlinear partial differential equations such as the Korteweg–de Vries, nonlinear Schrödinger, sine-Gordon, and nonlinear elastic or hydrodynamic equations. Nonlinear waves play a central role in fluid dynamics, plasma physics, nonlinear optics, condensed matter, and elastic media, where they mediate energy transport, pattern formation, and coherent structure dynamics.
A new study led by surfing scientists at the Scripps Institution of Oceanography at UC San Diego revealed the physical relationships underlying a pattern familiar to generations of surfers.
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